Ognuno la fa buona a casa sua: sua maestà la Ribollita.
Chiunque viva o provenga dalla tradizione fiorentina e toscana conosce la ribollita. Un piatto tipico della tradizione che spesso si mangia a casa fin da quando si è bambini. Un piatto consistente, proveniente dalla tradizione popolare, composto da pane, cavolo nero e fagioli. C’è chi ci mette il cavolo verza, chi il pomodoro, chi la fa raffreddare e poi la riscalda.
Ribollita perché da minestra di pane, quando avanza, si riscalda. Diventa una pappa, un piatto unico ricco e consistente, che fin dal profumo ti lascia l’acquolina in bocca, soprattutto in inverno quando fuori piove.
Ma il punto è questo: la ribollita, come tutti i piatti che provengono da una tradizione casalinga, si apprezza perché fatta in casa e si ricorda di un sapore eccezionale. Per questo alziamo il telefono e chiamiamo la nonna. Nonna Maria ha più di 85 anni, sente ancora bene al telefono. Si perde solo qualche parola.
“Nonna, devo preparare la ribollita. Come la faccio?”. “Io la fo a mente” mi dice. Fiorentina doc, lascia passare in quella descrizione tutta la bontà dei prodotti semplici e naturali.
Tu’ fai (devi fare) un soffrito o con la salsiccia o con la pancetta, ‘i che tu voi (quello che vuoi). E tutti gli odori … salvia, aglio, rosmarino… ogni cosa. Poi tu ci passi (ci metti) i fagioli. Abbastanza, almeno mezzo chilo belle cotti (già cotti). Un pochino interi e metà tu li passi. Du’ etti (due etti) interi e gli altri tre li passi. Fai bollire i’ brodo e tu ci metti i’ cavolo nero. I’ cavolo nero, un bel mazzetto. Si sfila. Tu lo lavi e tu lo metti nì brodo. Anche i’ pomodoro tu ci devi mettere: pomodoro pelato, pomodoro maturo. C’è chi un ce l’ho mette (qualcuno non lo mette). Io ce lo metto. Più coce (cuoce) meglio è. Minimo un ora e mezzo, anche due un gli scomoda a cuocere (se cuoce due ore è meglio). Poi si mette nella ciotola. A strati. I’ pane, la ribollita, i’ pane… e così via. Sarebbe meglio il pane nero. Pane raffermo, no fresco. Poi si riscalda, si fa ribollire e si mangia la sera.
Mentre me la immagino con quel dito che mi da indicazioni cercando di ricordarsi tutti quei passaggi che ormai fa come una preghiera a memoria, esco per andare a comprare cavolo nero e aspettare che il pane si raffermi. A casa avanza sempre poco.
Prima di riattaccare mi dice “Mi raccomando, vieni a trovarmi. Fammi sapere come gliè venuta”.
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